SEF Contest Series 2012

[marquart425x]

The Smashed Empire Triple Crown[/center][/b][/color]

This is a points series among the three shows scheduled to be backed by Smashed Empire Films in 2012.
***
First SEF Series event of 2012


..:: Spring Fever ::..
Event Deadline - March 24
Location: scale-demo.proboards.com
Enry fee: $2 per entry, $10 unlimited.

Divisions (all one and done if less than 30 cars)
*Full Size, 80s & Newer
*Compacts
*Trucks

...

A Non-points event with free entry...



..:: Summer Nationals: The Prelude ::..
Event Deadline - Friday Night June 29
Location: CrazyJsPlace.proboards.com
Enry fee: Free

Divisions
Full Size
Compacts OR Trucks TBA

... The Summer Nationals: The Prelude does not count toward 2012 Triple Crown ...

...

Second SEF Series event of 2012


..:: Harvest Havoc III ::..
Deadlines - Sept 21 & 28, 2012
Location: CrazyJsPlace.proboards.com
Enry fee: $2 per entry, $5 team, $10 unlimited.

Divisions (all one and done)
Early Deadline:
Mowers
Show and Shine
Outlaws
Grudge Matches
Youth (17 & Under)
**Bonus Point Deadline for full size entries**

Second Deadline
*Compact Team show (teams of two)
*Trucks
*Full Size Team Show (teams of three)

...

Third and final SEF Series event of 2012


..:: The Finals: Fall Classic II ::..
Event Deadline - Nov. 30, 2012
Location: Scale-Demo.proboards.com
Enry fee: $2 per entry, $10 unlimited.

Divisions (all one and done if less than 30 cars):
Full Size (63 & Older)
*Full Size (64 & Newer)
*Compacts
*Trucks

...

To advance enter for all shows, unlimited entries: $25

* - Indiciates Triple Crown Event.
If a given builder can place FIRST OVERALL in all three events of that divisions main events (part of winning team doesn't count), they will get a triple crown bonus.
Full Size sweep - $100
Compacts, Trucks - $50
***

Scoring of points:

Contests can enter as many cars as they wish in any given division. Their highest scoring car will be their total for that event. Events will each be scored on the 200 point scale used at Harvest Havoc 2, with trailers, mud, damage, settings counting.

There are no championship points for finish position, only your highest scoring car's total.

There will be divisions for Full Size, Trucks and compacts only. In events where there are multiple full size divisions, only your top scoring full size car will count toward the championship points... Therefore, if you build an outlaw and it scores higher than your havoc car, you only bank the points on the outlaw car.

Season pass: $25 unlimited entries to all three events.

[marquart425x]

Would like to see some small trophies from all you folks if you can make them using model kit trees and scraps of styrene... get them to me ahead of the shows to pass around to winners. This list will 100% change by the time the shows get here, lol... but I talked to JB last night and we mapped out the tenative plans.

A lot of this stuff I have already secured, so I'm putting it out there PLENTY early so you all know ahead of time what you're fighting for.
Update: I was able to procure a number of crown vics... Some things have changed

I know there is stuff coming from Josh, Rick and Justin. If you want to send anything out here to donate as prizes, let me know.

Resin Part Packs will fill in here and there as rookie, most-bent, random draw or Best of Show giveaways.

Best of Show: The judges will collaborate and give away a small something to a deeper finisher. Maybe their car was close, or they've made progress, or had nice paint or it was just well-liked. It's something to spread the love around. It's not always going to be a new car or fresh kit... but it' something. And if you finished in the regular payout, it's not likely that you'll be getting a Best of Show recognition.

* - indicates things I need to get yet
^ - need to make still, but I will do them

Point Standings

Full Size Champion
1. Small Plaque

Compacts Champion
1. Small Plaque

Trucks Champion
1. Small Plaque

Sweeps (win all three)
Full Size: $100
Compacts (minimum 7 per show): $50
Trucks (minimum 5 per show): $50

****

Spring Fever (remember, This is 80s & Newer!!)
Full Size
1. JB Hobbies Engine
2. Crown Vic
3. DVD
4. DVD
5. 2 Sheets Styrene/For Sale Sign

Best of show: Silver Basecoat

Compacts
1. JB Hobbies Gift Card $15
2. 1:24 scale trailer
3. Paint Pack

Trucks
1. JB Hobbies Gift Card $15
2. Smashed Empire Films $10 gift card
3. Revell 350 Engine kit

******

Free-to-enter Summer Nationals
Chain-and-Go, no-weld

Full Size
1. Crown vic
2. DVD

Best of show: Xacto Knife & Silver Basecoat
Most Mangled: Smashed Empire Films $10 gift card

Compacts:
1. DVD
2. Paint Pack

Trucks
1. DVD
2. Xacto Knife & Silver Basecoat



******

Havoc
Mowers
1. Mower

Show & Shine
1. 1965 Indy Pace Car Mustang

Outlaws
1. 1962 Electra 225

Youth Division
1. Crown Victoria & Plaque

Grudge Matches
-- Bragging Rights Only --

Compact Teams
Team: Gremlins
1. Ford Taurus, T-Shirt
2. DVD
3. JB Hobbies gift card $10

Trucks
1. DVD & Shirt
2. JB Hobbies Gift card $10
3. DVD

Full Size
Team: 1976 Caprices, T-Shirt
1. JB Hobbies Gift Card $25 & Shirt
2. '70 Monte Carlo OR Crown Victoria
3. '70 Monte Carlo OR Crown Victoria (whatever wasn't taken by 2nd)
4. JB Hobbies Engine kit
5. Resin Parts Pack (502)
6. JB Hobbies Gift Card $10
7. 3 spools of colored 9-wire

Most Mangled: DVD
Best of Show 1: Crown Vic
Best of Show 2: 3 spools of 9-wire


***

Fall Classic
Gold Iron (63 & Older)
1. JB Hobbies $20 gift card
2. DVD Pack(5 videos)
3. Set of 4 vtreads (rubber)

Full Size (64 & Older)
1. DVD Pack (5 videos)
2. JB Hobbies $15 gift card
3. Crown Victoria Kit
4. Set of 4 vtreads (rubber)
5. Paint pack & Brushes

Compacts
1. JB Hobbies $20 gift card
2. Compact Compliation DVD ^
3. Set of Skidsteer tires, wheels (resin)

Trucks
1. Full Size Truck ^
2. Xacto Knife and Silver Basecoat
3. 3 spools of colored 9-wire

[marquart425x]

SPRING FEVER RULES Remember: 80s & Newer

and

FALL CLASSIC


BUILD GUIDELINES:
Auxiliary fuel tank should be inside the car if the tank is NOT ahead of the rear axle. Tanks may be left in place, but builders should try to remove them (or drill a hole in them).

Chain/weld doors. Door seam welds (roof to rocker) are all right.

Halo bar: built off the seat bar OR floor.
fuel tank protectors allowed.
Up to six hood tie downs.
Hood catchers should connect only to sheet metal (cowl & roof), but may connect to dash bar if using nine wire looped around the bar.
Interior cage may have four connectors (2 left side, 2 right side) to the frame (Ohioans call them kickers, I don't call them that myself, but I get it...).

No limits on: bumpers, window bars, engine and engine cradles, DPs, transmissions, rear ends (go ahead and leaf it), folded fenders, core supports, V-ing/creasing/tucking...


Only things you should avoid:
No full plating of the doors (quater panel to fender) over existing door sheet metal (see below exception); door seam welds/strapped seams (roof to rocker) are all right. This includes top of door frame/roof seam.

Leaf conversions are ok; no arch plates on leafed cars. Arch plates are ALLOWED on cars running coil rears only. Brace the rear end if you want to.

Avoid obvious frame modificiations and strengthening practices.

'Tank Proctectors' are ok
'Cage in the doors' are ok
'My car had no floor so I had to patch it' is ok
'I wedged it and I ran a bar over the back window for safety' is ok
'My frame was tweaked so I plated it' is ok so long as it only attached to the nearest straight metal
'I have a bar near but not touching by distributor protector and it's built off my dash bar' is ok
'My car is pre-ran and the door skin got ripped off, so I patched it with thin sheet metal/straps' is ok - just don't go plating the hell out of it.

Pretty much: build how you want to and have fun.

[marquart425x]

SUMMER NATIONALS RULES

Chain and Go Rules

ALL FULLSIZE CARS ARE WELCOME

No welded doors, hoods or trunks, no angle-iron brackets with bolts as hold-downs
Allowed two bolts in hood, two in trunk
No wedged entries, period.
All doors, trunk and hood must be secured with 2 chains/wires per door/trunk/hood, maximum
No crisscrossing chains
Interchangable bumpers and motors are allowed; no homemade bumpers (the bumper should have come off an automobile of some sort) or round/box stock bumpers.
Body mounts can be replaced, four extra allowed
No window bars; hood catcher strap (flat stock) from roof to cowl allowed; should be bolted in place, not welded.
Any size tire is allowed
No leaf conversion are permitted (must be original equipment)
No extra plating on frame
Stock gas tank must be removed; operational gas tank must be in rear seat area/behind seat bar.
Battery must be moved to inside of compartment and secured
Seat Bar must be in place from post to post behind driver
Dash bar allowed if dash if taken out (highly recommended)
Shifters directly from tranny is allowed
Should have lap or shoulder belt OR both

Pre-runs:
All above apply, but also:
No patching frames at bent or 'rusted through' spots
Thin-guage patches on body allowed (welded in place); only what's needed to attach the patch to the body panel.

Key to this event: no welding of any sort.

A pre-built car that is welded up and then 'cut' ... meaning door, trunk straps have been torched through and chain run in places needed ... would be neat to see using these rules.

[marquart425x]

HARVEST HAVOC

..:: ABOVE ALL ::..
If it doesn't say you can, then you can't.

If you THINK you can, you SHOULDN'T until you ASK in a public board/forum such as conversation thread, driver's meeting or inspection.

Judges' rulings are final, and they are the ones interpreting the rules and completing the scoring, not the promoter.

..:: JUDGING AND SCORING ::..
All cars will be scored by all judges. After that, penalties/disqualifications will be enacted. Legendary 'Judge 4' will be back for this event; cars found with rule violations, submitted by users that did not use the Driver's Meeting and Inspection threads, will be thrown out with a score of ZERO (but standing segment totals will be included in the final spreadsheet).

Pics must include undercarriage, cab/roll cage and engine. Judges will be instruted: if it cannot be seen, it cannot be scored.

Key in notes in your descriptions; if you have a car that is previously run, be sure to note that (namely, bumpers that are fresh on cars that are damaged).

..:: ELIGIBILITY ::..
All cars from 2009, 2010 and 2011 events will be WELCOME, but not necessarily 'LEGAL.' Cars that were old builds and cars that were previously entered in contests are also WELCOME but not necessarily 'LEGAL.' Make sure the car you enter fits the rules as they are laid out.

PICS: If you are missing pictures for a given category, JUDGES RETAIN THE RIGHT TO GIVE THAT WHOLE CATEGORY ZEROs

..:: For All Havoc Classes ::..

FUEL TANK: If gas tank is above and/or in front of rear-end may remain in stock position. If gas tank is behind rear axle it must be moved to the inside is using stock tank, or may remain if punctured and auxilary tank is inside the car. Must have a kill switch if using an electric fuel pump.

I don't care about gasoline or alcohol. But, if you say it is one and it's not setup right and a judge whacks you - take this as a warning. You won't get zeros, but be smart. Original tanks should be removed, or at least drilled out if you cannot. Tanks should be centered in back seat. Homer posted: 5 DRAIN holes must be in floor around fuel tank. I do like that, it's a neat touch but not mandatory. Electric pumps have always been all right... run a kill switch for accuracy or you'll likely drop a toggle point or two.

EXTERIOR: All glass (excluding windshield) must be removed. Some cars have these things molded into their bodies. Do the best you can, we understand. Vinyl tops can stay, the rest should go. PA allows front windsheild glass to say in stock classes, so go ahead (and leave those inspection and reg stickers in place). Points will be scored higher on vinyl top conversions, and cars that had vinyl tops removed (with that rusted, stringy, adhesive-leftovers look) will be credited. You won't be penalized for a steel top.

ELECTRICAL: Battery(ies) - up to two - may be relocated to driver's compartment, preferably front passenger floor, secured to floor. Solenoids, computers may be relocated. THE CARSON CLAUSE: School bus batteries are allowed, please state this in your description. Advise clear pics of wiring/interior. Make your own terminals/batteries. Should be covered, but for intentions of pics and points, cover not neccessary.

IGNITION SWITCH: Complete ignition switch may be relocated and/or altered; key or toggle switches, open wiring, push button... do whatever, get creative. Clear pics will score better.

COOLING SYSTEM: Maybe bypassed. Cooling systems for oil, transmission, brakes and water can be moved inside car; electric fans are fine; should have a clutch of some sort.

..:: CAR NOTES ::..
Any (American or Foreign) hardtop, station wagon in full-size.

Compacts: same parameters apply to compacts with wheel bases under 110-inches (Four- and 6-cylinder engines only).

Use any make, model, year, body style (limo, hearse, wagon, convertible). Conversions will score better (indicate what it was, and what you turned it into).

Trucks: Any two- or four-wheel drive mini- or full-size truck, van or SUV.

If a car has been PREVIOUSLY run, identify that in the description. Pre-RUN is not the same as Pre-BENT. Pre-BENT is understood to be body preparation for battle. Pre-RUN is understood to be a car which has competed previously in a derby. Indicate repaints. If it has run and then sat around for a year and was merely washed off, then paint would crack somewhere.

..:: DRIVETRAIN ::..
ENGINE/MOTOR MOUNTS: Any motor, any transmission. Mounts at cradle can be welded in position. Run any transmission brace you want. The better built your brace, the better your tranny score. Plain jane, standard trannies will score 5's and under. Braces and cradles will help boost score. Engine mounted pedals, dip sticks, tranny cooler lines, oil cooler lines, hand-throttles, shifters, working shifters, return springs will all help boost score. Run any slider, or any rear. Reinforce if you wish. Run any stacks you wish, any exhaust pattern under the car also allowed (suggest dumping out by front doors).

DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR: May have an extention connecting DP and dash bar.

RADIATORS: Any radiator. Suggest ratchet-strapping or wiring in place; it will score better. Relocate if you want to. Run electric fan if you want to. Make sure wiring is dedicated in some way; make sure lines are run, too. Clear pics help.

TRANSMISSION: Mount maybe reinforced. Floor shifters allowed.

EXHAUST: You may run stacks.

TIRES: 2-4-6-8 ply. Dot. Car or Truck tires allowed, along with small implement tires (diggers), heavy-treads and bias ply narrow treads. No wheel weights, or studs on drive wheels. You may seal rim to tire bead, run bead locks and run deflectors on the valve stem. Tubes allowed. In short, any rims, any tires, any technique.

REAR-END: May be welded and leafed with rear end swaps and slider shafts allowed; braces allowed.

STEERING: Swap the shaft, quick connects all right. Multi-u-jointed steering shafts are ok.

..:: FRAME/SUSPENSION ::..

FRAME MODS: You may notch frame or bend the frame. Tilted Fords allowed.

Run your frame of choice; no hitches or whatever, swap mounts, four (4) extra frame-to-body bolts, no need for pucks (but if someone can do it well, it will score). Nothing added to frame. In the event you're custom or scratching a frame, please indicate so. I had a question on a GM frame regarding C-channell vs. box. It was a scratched frame and I didn't care, really. Hot pitched Fords that need to be cut at the crush boxes can be patched.

Furthemore, I'm not getting into the debate of top-welding or seam welding or whatever. You shouldn't plate it (simple derby honesty), and I have seen examples of all right jobs of welding a frame. But it's not going to do a thing, if it is even noticed by the judges. So... do whatever you think is best here. There's creativity in patching rusted spots or bent sections that had to be plated over, but no full plating/adding material. Keep it to one or two spots if you think you need to do that (and if you point it out and you can see it, it might actually score ok). I'm not advocating, but we'll leave room here for those who are looking to be creative. There's no room in this rule to allow a builder to argue their car is stronger than another.

SUSPENSION: Leaf conversions are ok; no arch plates on leafed cars. Arch plates are ALLOWED on cars running coil rears only. Reinforce your tierods, weld the front suspension using flat stock from lower A arm to the frame, and run rod in the front springs if you want. Run rod in the rear through the speaker deck or floor to adjust ride height if you wish (someone please make a good looking mosher this year!!).

CORE SUPPORT: Space it up on the tilted Fords. Allthread the core if you want, and go thru the hood. It will count as a tie down. Wrapping bumper wire around the core support all thread will count as two tie downs.

..:: EXTERIOR/BODY ::..
BODY OVERALL: Feel free to wedge. Feel free to tilt. Feel free to space. Feel free to cross fenders (80s ford nose on a new style body). Conversions encouraged. Feel free to smashtop. Feel free to V-crease, roll, pre-bend. Encourage you to describe your intentions (did this car run last year, sit all winter, get repainted and come back? Did you pre-bend the quarters? Is it a Chevy with a Buick clip?). You can patch holes in doors if this is a pre-run car, and can patch floors that have rusted away.

WHEEL OPENINGS: Wheel wells may be cut, and rolled for tire clearance. Bolts in each wheel lip are acceptable. Wheel openings cannot be covered over with additional metal. Maximum seven per opening.

HOOD: After inspection, hood may be secured in six (6) positions using chain, wire, seatbelts, cable, angle iron, bolts. Front bolts may run through core support or into the core mounts, but will count as hood tie-downs. Chaining of the bumper to/through the hood with chain routed through the hood will count as two of the hood tie-down positions. You may chain bumper to the frame. As a rule, if you aren't sure if it counts: if it crosses/overlaps the hood seam, it counts as a tiedown (chain/wirehood catchers on windows, wire looped through fenders to keep fenders in).

DOORS: May weld all door seams; Chain them shut or strap them shut. Strapping whole door frame shut allowed. May plate (one sheet of metal) over driver's door only if you wish. Window Posts strapped with Diamond plate are fine.

WINDOWS: Front allowed two straps from roof to cowl. If it goes to the hood, it's a tiedown. May run from roof to dashbar, but not from the roll over bar. Sedans/Coupes: Rear window may have a up to 2 pieces of metal from the roof to the floor, or to trunk hinge/seam. May be round tube, box tube, bar, strap or nine-wire. Should extend straight down from rear roofline/window opening. Should not extend to/into/through trunk. Wagons: May wire quarter windows. No metal bolted/chained/welded over window opening extending over rear wheels.

TRUNK/TAILGATE: Maybe secured by welding, or using chain, wire, seatbelts, cable or bolts. Folding, cutting, tucking, wedging, V-creasing is allowed. No plating over the whole trunk. Station wagons/hatchbacks may be sedagoned. Welding/diamond-plate over all seams is allowed.

PAINT: PAINT is important. Single-color bodies won't score well. However, well-done detailed factory paint (aged, faded, rusted) is still your paint and will be recognized. All black cars should have some contrasting color; it is NOT required, but will sacrifice points.

..:: DRIVER COMPARTMENT/CAGES ::..
A pillar - post by front fender to the front doors
B Pillar - between front and rear doors/post to back window on 2dr sedans
C pillar - Between rear door and quarter panel
Kicker - anything extending to the frame with intention or effectiveness in preventing frame movement.
Roof - area between the front and rear windows, and left and right side windows
Interior - area behind the firewall, extending back to and not beyond the speaker deck/back seat frame/trunk hinge mounts/rear window/C pillar.

One bar REQUIRED on all cars behind the seat.

Dash bar from side-to-side behind firewall is allowed; but is optional. Nothing built through the firewall other than dp-dash kicker.

Door bars should not extend beyond the middle of the rear doors; they're also optional. Allowed two downward kickers or supports built off the frame per side (2 left, 2 right). Should go straight down, no angles. Nothing built down to frame can extend beyond the plane of the seat bar (not into trunk or into back seat area). Allowed a roll over bar inside the car.

Halo bars and roll over bars can have nothing extending to or from them, except for the suppor that extends to the door/seat bar(s). A rollover bar is allowed but must be off seat or door bars, nothing extending to the floor, frame, trunk, hood. Seat brace should be against seat, side braces no longer than it takes to hold up seat brace. No door-to-door bars behind the seat bar. Seat bar is the last allowed full-width bar. It should touch the seat.

Fuel tank protectors allowed, as you wish. Build it off the seat bar. Allowed supports to the floor, not the frame (only cage-to-frame connections would be off door bars). Cannot tie into roll bar (interior/exterior) or rear window bars/straps. May touch back seat framework or inner wheel wells. May build off the tank protector upward under roof and inside back window. Free standing tank protectors/fuel cells should be bolted to the floor only, not through the frame.

Exterior: Roll over bar will be built off seat bar, and can lean backward, not extending beyond the roof area. Nothing to be built off the roll over bar or it's vertical supports.

Bars must be on inside of car, excluding halo, window or rollover bars.

*** limited to one roll over bar either in or out of the car, your choice ***

KICKERS: NO Kickers allowed. Not to the core support, not off the roof and to the trunk. No bars allowed outiside the driver's compartment (excluding roll bars). Nothing to the core support or beyond the inner quarters/wheel wells. NO Down tubes or kickers to the core support allowed. Four-door cars using a four-point cage should not have door bars extending beyond the midpoint of the rear doors. Door bars cannot attach to the fuel cell holster/protector.

BUMPERS: Shocks and brackets maybe welded. May interchange car bumpers; cross them over, weld them on, build your own (replicas of a bumper, no 'square tube' or 'box steel' bumpers). Damaged bumpers will carry better than undamaged bumpers. Bumpers with vents can be plated over. Vents that are painted black (like a vent would be in a real car) will probably get positive attention. Go ahead and trim the ends. Put the shocks in the frame if you want. Put washers or nuts on the bumper and string it back to the hood. Chain it to the frame. Weld the chain to the bumper, then back to the frame. But if it crosses the hood seam, it's counting as a tie down.

[marquart425x]

SCORING: We ARE going to do the +7 for first time build or +5 for first time on the site...


**clarified 3/4: you can get the 7 point bonus for Spring Fever b/c no one has had any contests on this site yet. You do not get BOTH 7 and 5. 5 points goes to a car that was in a contest on another site (wecrash, crazyjs) but never on here. Reasoning is this will keep people from entering cars over and over and over, and will push people to build new stuff regularly. You can still enter a car as many times as you want, but it will only get the extra points once per host site.

Example: You run your Havoc Car at Spring Fever: +5 points (old car, 1st time on Scale Demo). You run a new build, never before seen, at Spring Fever: +7 (1st run for the car). You run your Spring Fever car again at Havoc +5 points (2nd run, 1st time on CrazyJs).

[marquart425x]

Full season pass holders as of March 1
Joey Roth
114
502
Josh Paul
Dr. Demo
BWzig

Spring Only
guy in Va sent $2 for 80s class, but no name